Silver Filigree is dying a slow death in India

As I started getting close to Cuttack, I saw a drastic change in the infrastructure. From the broad roads of Bhubaneshwar, I was suddenly transported to dusty and narrow bylanes of Cuttack. Lined with colourful houses juxtaposed to each other, it suddenly reminded me of Chandani Chowk in Delhi.  The streets were bustling with vehicles and people doing their daily chores. If you are wondering why I was roaming in the narrow lanes of Cuttack then “Silver Filigree” or “Tarakashi work (as called in Hindi) is the answer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zZachnAktY

What is Silver Filigree?

Filigree is a delicate kind of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads, flat wires, twisted threads, or all in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs. The origin of Filigree can be traced to Mesopotamia and Egypt but later the charm spread across Asia content as well. This art form also gained a lot of popularity in the Italian and French metalwork market.

Silver Filigree in India

In India, the art form is famous majorly in the eastern states, mainly in Cuttack, Orissa. Cuttack is home to the delicate art of Silver Filigree and is also known as the Silver city of the country, rightly so. Colloquially this art form is known as “Tarakashi” and it has mainly flourished under the patronage of Mughal emperors. The craft has been passed on from one generation to another and that is the reason why silver still sparkles the narrow bylanes of Cuttack.

My Experience of Visiting Cuttack and Witnessing Filigree artwork live

A huge signboard of one of the shops made it clear that I was standing in the Naya Sadak area. “Choudhary Bazar” and “Naya Sadak” were the only names that popped up in my prior research. The road was lined with jewellery shops selling silver filigree artefacts and gold jewellery. I thought I have arrived and I hurled the door of one of the shops. I asked them if they could show me how silver filigree is done. His immediate response took all my joy away as he cleared that he only sells the artefacts. But he was kind enough to give me a new name where I could find artisans working at that point in time. The name is “Muhammadiyah Gali”. I wasted no time in making the good use to google maps and discovered that the place was just 20 minutes away.

Twenty-Five minutes bumpy rickshaw ride later I reached Muhammadiyah Gali. The Gali is essentially a lane with a lot of small units where the craftsman work of Silver to create beautiful pieces of Silver Filigree. All the shops were empty because it was lunch time and all the artisans had gone for lunch. But to my good luck, I met Sukant Sahu Ji.

Knowing more about Silver Filigree In Cuttack

I expressed my interest in knowing more about Silver Filigree which came as a shock to him. I told him I am doing certain research for my blog, it brought an instant smile on his face and he welcomed me inside. “What do you want to know?” he asked me and I said, “Everything that there is to know about silver filigree”. He gave a sarcastic smile but nodded his head in agreement. I sat comfortably by his side and he started explaining the process of Silver Filigree.

Process of creating Silver Filigree jewellery/showpieces

Sukant Ji picked up few silver wires which were lying in front of him and started telling me that process of filigree art involves creating a piece by joining silver wires as thin as a hair in bits and giving a complete shape to it. It requires a lot of effort as the process is very intricate and every step requires adept movements. If you go wrong at one place the whole piece goes for a toss. The first step in the process is melting of ingots of silver on medium heat on a small stove and then pouring into a mould to make rods. The rods are then inserted into a manual wire drawing machines with tiny apertures which result in the formation of fine quality wires. And these wires form the major component of filigree jewellery.

Once the wires are ready the next step is the creation of the design of the filigree jewellery. It is important that you should be able to draft your design on a piece of paper so that you can visualize it better. The wires are carefully placed on the outlines of the design sheet and the desired shape is achieved. Once the outline is complete the thin wires are crimped with the help of machines (which are specially made for filigree) and designs are created to fill the outline. This mainly consists of all kinds of creepers, jaals (net), spirals and curls. Once the design is complete the wires are carefully soldered to the outline frame. The pieces are then rubbed and polished to achieve the final touch.

Inspiration for Silver Filigree Designs

While Sukant Sahu ji was explaining all the minute details of the craft I couldn’t help but notice the diversity in the designs of the filigree pattern. This leads me to inquire about the inspiration behind the conceptualization of these designs. He told me that earlier the inspiration was mainly temples, statues of God and Goddesses, flora and fauna. But now with the advent of technology, there are craftsmen who also create the abstract and modern design as well.

Silver Filigree is dying a slow death in India

Sukant Ji was kind enough to show every step in practical. There were moments when my eyes twinkled with amazement and in one of those moments Sukant Ji said, “dekh likiyea kuch saalo baad dekhne nahi milega” (see all you want today, you won’t get to see any of it after few years). When I inquired more, he explained the current situation of Silver Filigree. Only a handful of artisans, as less as 70, are left in Cuttack who are actively involved in the filigree. The next generation is not interested in the work purely because of the less revenue generation.

The work is hard, it is intricate and delicate. It takes a lot of dedication and time and the returns are not in those proportions. Earlier, if silver cost 1 rupee the cost of labour was also one rupee. But now silver costs 40,000 per kg the labour cost is just 6000-7000 per month. Everyone wants a good living standard and clearly continuing this art form will not get you any close to it. Gradually we are losing artisans because of the decline in money. Working on a tea stall and washing the glasses pay you more than this. I don’t expect my kids to do the same because their expectations don’t align with the future of this art form.

I am doing it purely for the love of it.

It is very sad to see the current state and I shiver at the thought of its future. I have given all my life to this art form and one fine day it is going to get extinct. The art form has passed on from generations but now it’s future is in grave danger. His voice went heavy as he moved around his little space. The Government should take necessary measures to keep it alive.

There is a lot of money sanctioned every year in the name of art, craft, culture and heritage but none of it sees the light of the day. Students from Italy come here to learn the process of Silver Filigree and our own people have no interest in it. Maybe our future generations will go to Italy to buy Silver Filigree, he chuckled while saying it. I spent some more time interacting with him and then I said goodbye to him.

Bought some silver Filigree home

On my way back I made a pit stop at Naya Sadak and Choudhury Bazar and picked some silver filigree ornaments for my mothers and sisters. If you go to Bhubaneshwar then take some time out and definitely visit Cuttack to get some these item, while they are available.

How to reach Cuttack

Cuttack is around 25 km/45 min north of Bhubaneswar, Odisha’s capital city. Easily accessible by buses and local cabs.

Where to Buy

Silver filigree is available in jewellery shops at Shaikh Bazaar, Naya Sadak, and Dolomundai.

Disclaimer :

The photographs are copywriters property. Reproduction of any of the contents, including the photographs without prior consent/permission of the writer, will attract legal action.

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